December 23: Night of the Radishes
Ever thought about carving a radish for Christmas? Probably not -- unless you’re from Oaxaca, Mexico. The 23rd of December is “la Noche de los Rábanos” (night of the radishes), a wonderful and weird tradition in this gem of a city.
A radish tree with Oaxacan folk motifs | Image credit: Yaya Dada
For the last few centuries, people have gathered on this date to attend mass at the churches in the town’s beautiful, historic center. Along with the mass went a Christmas market, where the vendors would exhibit their wares to attract the most attention possible. People selling vegetables started to arrange them in eye-catching scenes and designs. It could be onions, lettuce, or turnips, but carving a particular kind of radish is what became the most famous -- though you’ll still see people making displays out of corn husks too. As of 1897, this has been formalized into a competition, offering a spectacle that attracts thousands of people from around the region and beyond.
Celebration in radishes! | Image credit: Alejandro Linares Garcia
Every year, tons of radishes are grown on city-controlled land just for this event. All the carving and arranging happens on the 23rd itself. The artists depict nativity scenes and other stories from the Bible, but also showcase many aspects of Oaxaca culture such as motifs from the Day of the Dead or the Guelaguetza dance festival. Long queues form to see all the displays, and by the end of the night, judges award prizes to the best ones. All this has to happen quickly since the radishes wilt after only a few hours!
More radish artistry | Image credit: Yaxchibonam
This is just one of the many amazing Christmas customs in Oaxaca. I honestly don’t know of another city with a more vibrant and delightful culture. Almost every night in December there will be parades down cobbled streets, bands marching around 400 year old plazas, and giant puppets twirling in celebration, all of it a fascinating amalgamation of indigenous folk traditions with influences from Spain and Europe. This video gives just a taste of the festive atmosphere.
Feliz Navidad!
