Ponte del Diavolo di Donero and a Legendary Pact with the Devil

Lisa Anderson | Lisa’s Dolce Italia

The name, Ponte del Diavolo (or, Ponte dei Diavoli) has been given to a multitude of bridges both natural and manmade. A quick search in Italy alone comes up with roughly 30 of them.  They are usually ancient and located mainly in Europe, but present almost everywhere in the world. Their relationship with the devil is usually associated with a legend as is the case in the town of Dronero.

Dronero and the Devil Image | Lisa Anderson

Dronero and the Devil
Image | Lisa Anderson

Dronero (Droné in Piedmontese) is a charming town tucked up against the mountains in the province of Cuneo, in Piemonte Italy. Located at the mouth of the Maira Valley on a rocky buttress at the confluence of the Maira and Roccabruna rivers, the town is situated in a panoramic position with sweeping views of the occidental Alps that divide Italy from France. Flowing down from the mountains, the Maira sometimes becomes a raging body of water that carries rocks and trees that would smash and destroy the many bridges that were built to cross it until the major decided to make a pact with the devil.

Valle Maira, Cuneo, Piemonte, Italy Image | Lisa Anderson

Valle Maira, Cuneo, Piemonte, Italy
Image | Lisa Anderson

The characteristic crenelated bridge with its large unequal arches, is architecturally stunning. The largest arch has a diameter of almost 90 feet and is 20 feet wide; spanning 59 feet above the water level, it embraces two large irrigation channels.  Built in 1428 to cross the Maira river, it facilitates access to Dronero and the valley for those coming from across the plain. On the pillar of the minor arch in the direction of the village, once rested a drawbridge, whose iron hinge was found under the road surface in 1810, when the entrance passage was enlarged and the Ghibelline dovetail battlements were restored. The fact that there was a drawbridge gives testament to a less peaceful time in history when the majority of society toiled ceaselessly just to survive and the importance of a bridge that couldn’t be easily swept away at Mother Nature’s whim. These needs gave birth to the ingenuity that built the bridge and the legend of the Ponte del Diavolo di Dronero

The crenellated bridge of Dronero Image | Lisa Anderson

The crenellated bridge of Dronero
Image | Lisa Anderson

The inhabitants of the village of Dronero had decided to build a bridge to be able to cross the Maira river without difficulty. Despite their efforts, however, no bridge was strong enough to withstand the floods of the rushing torrent. Every time a bridge was built, the rain swelled the waters of the stream and the current carried away the villagers fragile work.

The mayor of Dronero, not knowing what to do anymore, decided to ask the devil for help: "Devil, can you build a bridge for us that the waters of the stream do not carry away?" "Certainly, I can, but in return, the first soul that crosses the bridge is mine."

Ponte del Diavolo shrine—a place to pray when you cross the bridge. Image | Lisa Anderson

Ponte del Diavolo shrine—a place to pray when you cross the bridge.
Image | Lisa Anderson

The mayor accepted the pact and the devil built a bridge so strong that it could withstand even the worst storms, when the raging river was lashing out furiously, spewing stones, fallen trees and branches.

Dronero’s iconic bridge—a feat of engineering (or devilry) built in 1428. Image | Lisa Anderson

Dronero’s iconic bridge—a feat of engineering (or devilry) built in 1428.
Image | Lisa Anderson

When the bridge was ready, nobody wanted to be the first to cross it but the mayor had a plan.  He took a piece of bread and threw it on the bridge. A stray dog ​​wandering about saw the bread and rushed to get it, then quickly escaped across the stream. The first soul had crossed the bridge! The devil, who didn't know what to do with a dog's soul, ran away in a rage and from that day on, the bridge took the name Ponte del Diavolo.

Ponte del Diavol di Donero—still standing after six centuries Image | Lisa Anderson

Ponte del Diavol di Donero—still standing after six centuries
Image | Lisa Anderson

 

Lisa Anderson

Lisa Anderson is a professional tour guide in Italy, working for Rick Steves’ since 1999. She moved to Italy temporarily to teach English and learn to speak Italian and fell in love with the country…and an Italian man. Lisa spends her time guiding tours, exploring the region, and cooking up a storm with her garden’s produce. She lives in Piedmont with her husband and sons. You can follow her at lisasdolceitalia.com

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