The Top 5 Eastern European Monasteries
Andrew Villone | Savor the Experience Tours
I get a lot more “churched-out” than monasteried-out on my travels. Usually with a monastery, it’s more serene, fewer idiots with self-stickies, and the clergy-to-tourist ratio is in the clergy’s favor. But my number one favorite thing about monasteries is that the best ones are far off the beaten path—sometimes hidden and many times built in a perfect location, as if those who created it knew that someday we’d all need a beautiful panoramic view to contemplate the meaning of our existence. Certainly only the more adventurous travelers (especially if that means driving on Georgian roads) can reach them. Here are a few of my faves…
Sucevita — Bucovina region, Romania
The Sistine Chapel of the East, as they have been labeled, these four monasteries in northern Romania, close to the border with Ukraine, have one thing in common that is quite different than other monasteries: they are painted on the outside. And they’ve managed to keep these elaborate and colourful frescoes from being destroyed by the weather for nearly 600 years. Sucevita has my favorite position of all of them, furthest away from towns and nestled in forests with a scenic pass nearby that leads to the next painted monastery.
Davit Gareja — Middle of nowhere, Georgia
Driving into endless semi-desert steppe with strangely-shaped ridges and outcrops so bizzare, you feel like you’re in a dinosaur graveyard. Oh yeah, there is an actual monastery here, too. Founded in the 6th century, it has weathered sackings by Mongols and Timor, a vengeful Persian Shah that slaughtered 6000 monks. And, if that was not enough, it survived being used as target practice by Soviet army. Somehow, someway, it’s still standing.
Khor Virap — Near the border with Turkey, Armenia
An Armenian monastery with the towering snow covered Mount Ararat behind it which happens to be the alleged place where Noah’s Ark came to rest: What else do you need?
Pleterje — Šentjernej, Slovenia
Located in Slovenia’s least explored region of Dolenjska, dotted with rolling green hills, farm land and vineyards, Pleterje is an active monastery but it is unusually quiet. Maybe it’s because the entire complex is walled but more likely because it’s of the Carthusian Order where monks are not allowed to talk. Less talk, more schnapps, as they say. Their pear brandy here is famous all over the country. An outdoor folk museum is right next door and is a good way to see how life was and still remains in these pastoral parts of Europe.
Alaverdi — Kakheti region, Georgia
Some monasteries produce wine and other alcohol. But this monastery, in the heart of the world's oldest wine region known as Kakheti, has a winery where you can do tastings, buy products, and get a glimpse of the traditional qvevri (underground amphoras) that hold the wine. Its impressive cathedral from the 11th century was the highest religious building in Georgia until just recently, and it boasts a spectacular backdrop with the Caucasus mountains.