Italy in August: The Down-Low on Ferragosto
Anna Savino | Italianna Tours
After years of organizing wine tours in the Piedmont region in Italy, I still have to warn travelers about traveling in August. From an Italian’s perspective, “Ferragosto” lasts for almost the entire month, although the official date is August 15th. Italians traditionally take the whole two weeks off surrounding this day.
What is Ferragosto?
The origin of this holiday and name goes back to Ancient Rome. The name itself comes from the Latin Feriae Augusti which means the “August rest time.” Actually, the month of August was named after Roman Emperor Augustus. In 18 BC, the Emperor declared this month as a time for celebration and rest after long periods of farm work.
The pagan, Roman festivities originally began August 1st and linked other festivals occurring in the same month, including with a celebration on the 13th to venerate the goddess Diana. In the early centuries of Christianity, the Church began to celebrate the Assumption of Mary on August 15, commemorating her ascension into heaven in both body and soul at the end of her earthly life. Over time, the association of August time-off and the Catholic holy day of obligation merged, creating the two-weeks long Ferragosto holiday.
Traveling during Ferragosto
The majority of Italians have their vacation the two weeks surrounding August 15th, which means a few things you should consider:
Shops and restaurants will be closed, especially if you are exploring inland towns away from the coast. This could be a huge disappointment if you didn't know. For example, last year I wanted to make a stop in the foodie capital Modena before reaching the Adriatic Coast for our beach stay. Nearly every restaurant was closed, and the only thing we could do with two young children was climb up the steps of the church tower (where I ended up falling down the stairs and rolling my ankle with daughter in arms) in the blistering heat. We were all hungry and tired of traipsing around the city trying to find just one decent place to eat a meal. I could not fathom the idea of staying in Modena without tasting any of the local products like Balsamic vinegar, prosciutto & Parmigiano—heresy! I must confess, I shed a tear while the kids were screaming and throwing tantrums as we resorted to eating at a bocce ball court with all the old Italian men. At the same time, I should not have been surprised because it was, after all, the week of Ferragosto.
Everyone flocks to the beaches to get away from the heat in the cities. If you are on the coast, be prepared for loads of people and the highest of the high season. Please be sure to book seaside accommodation far in advance during these dates and expect higher prices.
Be prepared in Italy for extremely hot weather and not a lot of air conditioning. Make sure you book rooms with AC and perhaps bring along a little portable fan with you.
You might not find ice in your water, but stay cool with gelato, granite and spritzes.
My family was a little concerned with traveling to Italy in August to visit me. I actually encouraged them because I think it is such a fun month with kids! People are out on the streets, there are numerous firework displays and sagras (food, wine and music festivals). Have no fear— just be prepared and enjoy the festivities!