In the 1980s, the city of Bilbao in Spain was a total disaster—not the kind of city you wanted to visit. It suffered incredibly high unemployment rates, street violence, drug dealing on every corner, and to top all of these, ETA (Euskadi Ta Askatasuna or “Basque Homeland and Liberty,” the now extinct Basque terrorist band) embraced Bilbao as its unofficial headquarters. There was no trace of the glorious past of the city. 

The Camino de Santiago is above all, a personal experience. No matter if you walk with your friends or with your partner, the rhythms of walking are different and there will be many miles where you bounce along with your thoughts. The Camino will change you for life. Do it for whatever reason inspires you, religious, spiritual, tourist, sports…regardless of how and why you start it, you will end it as a different person.

Here in the Basque country, the sense of community is very strong. We say we do things in the auzolan way. It doesn't have an exact translation, but it kind of means that everybody who can help in the community, does. We construct houses, clean the forest, fix the church’s ceiling or take care of our elderly in the auzolan way. You volunteer to do whatever you do best.

Imagine my fascination  when I found a store in a tiny town in the Pyrenees and saw endless cencerros in different shapes, sizes and materials. I approached the lady owner and asked her the reason for such a variety. When I heard her reply, my brain just exploded!. Not only do the shapes and materials differ, but the clappers also have a lot to do with the variation in the bells.

The moment I set a foot in that magical place, I realized what she meant. I was Basque, I was home. That smoky smell, the music, the long family-style tables, the Pelota Fronton (pelota court), the wrinkled faces of those old men playing cards (mus, a Basque card game, to be exact) reminded me of my grandpa. It didn't just look like home, it felt like home, it was home. I still get goosebumps when I think about it.

When we think about witches, what normally comes to mind is an ugly, old woman with a wart on the tip of her nose, casting spells over a boiling pot. At least, this is the way Hollywood has portrayed them. It is 100% different from what we consider a witch in the Basque culture. We call them “sorguiñe”, which means “the one that gives life”.

What comes to mind when you think of the Basque culture in Spain? Perhaps its famous locales like the cities of Bilbao or San Sebastián, mouth-watering pintxos (Basque-style tapas), the world-renown wine region La Rioja, or even the lively festival of San Fermín (popularly associated with The Running of the Bulls in Pamplona).

Ok, let’s face it, when you think about Pamplona, the first thing that comes to mind is the non-stop party that we have between July 6th and finishing July 14th. But your second thought should be: how on earth do you run with the bulls? Here are 11 tips to try to make the best of it and be safe(-ish) as well.