The Road to Santiago
The yellow arrow points the way along the Camino de Santiago
Image | Fran Glaría
What is the Camino de Santiago?
Where does it start?
Who was Santiago?
What is the motivation to pilgrimage for over 600 miles?
So many questions!
I am going to tell you what I have learned about it. I have walked it twice, and as soon as I can, I will do it again.
The Camino de Santiago is above all, a personal experience. No matter if you walk with your friends or with your partner, the rhythms of walking are different and there will be many miles where you bounce along with your thoughts. The Camino will change you for life. Do it for whatever reason inspires you, religious, spiritual, tourist, sports…regardless of how and why you start it, you will end it as a different person. I believe that in doing the Camino, you become a better person because over the course of the days, you will certainly learn many things about yourself and about life in general.
A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY
Santiago is also known as “James, son of Zebedee” or “James, the Greater.” There are two James in the Bible (both of whom were apostles of Jesus Christ), the elder or “greater” one and the younger or “lesser” one. Our James, who is now the patron saint of Spain, was in charge, back in the early 1st century, of traveling all the way to Hispania (the Roman name for the Iberian Peninsula) to spread the teachings of Jesus.
Depiction of Santiago, also known as Saint James, The Greater
Painting by Francisco Polanco | Museo de Bellas Artes, Sevilla
Image | JI FilpoC, Wikimedia Commons
When Santiago arrived in these lands, he found some people who were not particularly receptive to this message. He was so discouraged and filled with a great sense of failure that he even considered returning to Jerusalem. According to legend, it was then, in 40 AD that the Holy Mary appeared to him on top of a pillar. She gave him the encouragement and strength to continue. This pillar is preserved at the Cathedral in Zaragoza, which is referred to as the Cathedral of El Pilar.
He finished his journey in Galicia, the northernmost and westernmost Roman province in Europe at the time (Roman attempts to conquer Britain start taking hold in 47 AD). Once his desire for Christianization was fulfilled, he returned to Palestine. Not much later, in 44 AD, he was beheaded by order of Herod Agrippa, in Jaffa. His disciples collected his body, and following the emperor's orders to not allow his burial in Palestine and prevent it becoming a place of worship, they put the body (and the head) in a stone sarcophagus, placed it on a boat and pushed it into the sea.
Now I must make a small parenthesis in the story, in order to clarify, that regarding the Camino de Santiago, there are hundreds of legends and precious stories that must be looked at as a question of faith, because if we explore them from the position of reason, we will lose a lot of what the Camino is willing to give to us.
Back to the story...
We were in Palestine with Santiago on the boat, and his disciples were pushing it into the sea. How did that boat get to Santiago de Compostela, where his body was buried and continues to be venerated? Well, very “easily”. Here comes one of those legends I was talking about. Four magnificent angels, sent from heaven, guided the boat through the Mediterranean Sea. They sailed by Sicily and Ibiza, navigated the Strait of Gibraltar into the Atlantic Ocean where it headed north along the coast (Portugal) until they reached Galicia. From there, the sarcophagus was loaded onto an ox-drawn cart for transport. Suddenly, the oxen refused to continue walking. This was considered a divine signal to bury Santiago at that exact location.
Years passed. Centuries passed. And this holy location was totally forgotten. It wasn't until 813 AD, during the reign of King Alfonso II el Casto, when a hermit, who lived near the forest where the oxen had stopped, saw thousands of stars floating over that empty field every single night. The hermit, convinced that something extraordinary was happening there, communicated the news to Bishop Teodomiro, who in turn contacted King Alfonso. With great expectation they began excavations, and with great joy, they discovered the uncorrupted body of Santiago.
The city where Santiago is currently buried (Santiago de Compostela) takes its name from the Latin words campus stellae (“field of stars”). From that moment on, the tomb of Santiago became one of the most important Christian pilgrimage sites—as important as Rome and Jerusalem.
Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain
Image | WOMEX, Wikimedia
CAMINO BASICS
But where does the Camino de Santiago start?
If people come from all over Europe to embark on this pilgrimage, there actually shouldn't be just one starting point. In fact, its point of origin is within you. It starts on the doorway of your home, in the core of your mind, in the depths of your heart. For everyone, the Path begins at the place where your journey begins. If you are from Washington, it starts in Washington. If you are from Amsterdam, your journey will start in Amsterdam.
I always explain that the Camino de Santiago looks like a tree with millions of tiny branches. Small twigs, gather throughout Europe make their way to France. Once there, they become four large branches, or roads, that collect the flow of people who come from all over the world. The Arles route, the Puy en Velay route, the Vézelay route, and the Tours route. If you dare to start the Camino from any one of these places, know that it is a challenge.
Three of these branches merge in a very small village called Ostabat. It’s very close to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the last French town before crossing the Pyrenees through the Roncesvalles pass. The fourth route, from Arles, crosses the Pyrenees through Somport. Now two, these branches meet at Puente la Reina, in Navarra, where they become one strong trunk, called El Camino Francés.
As a new pilgrim, where should you start? For most of us, the Camino begins in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (SJPP). The best way to reach SJPP is by flying to Madrid in Spain, then getting a train to Pamplona. Once in Pamplona there are daily buses to SJPP, or if you meet 3 other pilgrims, a shared taxi costs about €25 per person.
The European Union is a fairly recent establishment, but in the Middle Ages there was already a special relationship between European inhabitants, and it was precisely the Camino de Santiago that brought them all together. There was a pass that proved that you were a pilgrim on the way to Santiago. This passport would allow pilgrims to move freely, and even cross territories without paying taxes.
Today’s modern pilgrims carry one, too. It is a humble folded cardboard passport, where you collect the stamps of the places where you are passing through. It is a very treasured memento because it shows that on such-and-such day, at such-and-such hour, you were at a particular point on the Camino. Another similarity to the Middle Ages, where the passport would give you some privileges, the modern one does, too. As a pilgrim, you can eat, sleep, and even get a massage for a reduced price.
Passport for the Camino de Santiago
Image | Jane023, Wikimedia Commons
CAMINO HOUSING
We are often asked, “Where can I sleep while walking the Camino? “
There are all kinds of accommodations along the way. I personally recommend staying in the hostels (albergues de peregrinos) run by friends of the Camino de Santiago. These are people who altruistically dedicate part of their free time to welcoming and helping pilgrims with everything they might need along the way. They have already walked the Camino (some of them many times) and can often anticipate your needs with a glance.
Signage for an albergue de peregrinos—pilgrims’ hostal—in Pamplona.
Image | Jialxv, Wikimedia Commons
These places are not luxurious, but they do have everything you will need. A laundry room, a computer and WiFi, a small kitchen to heat something quick, a fridge with cool water, clean showers with hot water and some rooms with bunk beds that will allow you to rest well...or at least rest with other people who, like you, are making their own way. Sleeping and sharing experiences in a room with other people you don't know a thing about is a curious experience. If you are stuck with somebody by your bed who snores like a diesel engine, don’t worry, You will probably be so tired that you will likely sleep like a baby.
Parado de Argómaniz
Image | parador.es
An albuerge only welcomes pilgrims (that is where your pilgrim passport comes handy), and they are super cheap. The price is merely symbolic, just enough to pay the general expenses, without profit. Maybe, some days you will want/need to give yourself a treat and go to sleep at a fancy hotel. I would recommend a Parador Nacional. These historic buildings have been transformed into breathtaking hotels. Can you imagine staying in a 15th-century palace where the Catholic Kings slept? It’s a luxurious reward that any pilgrim should consider for themselves at least once.
CAMINO TIP
To walk this journey, it is not necessary to carry many things, although some things are essential: good footwear, a raincoat, comfortable clothes, a hat, sunscreen, water, and although it may seem silly, cotton underwear. I have a friend who is a doctor, and has written some articles talking about the physical problems of chafing, tendinitis, blisters, etc…that can happen on The Camino. He says that the most important thing for a pilgrim is to wear good cotton underwear.
CAMINO ART
The Camino is full of history, art, stunning monuments, magnificent castles, medieval bridges, and great heart-stirring cathedrals built by the best architects of that time. In contrast, you will also find small and humble hermitages located in places where nature is exuberant. One of the greatest pleasures of the day is encountering an opportunity to listen to songs in these jeweled chapels, where the acoustics are celestial and divine.
Imagine the vibrant energy of the stonemasons, architects, artists, carpenters from all the guilds that participated in the construction of the Gothic cathedrals or Romanesque churches. Some of these people were hired by the wealthy nobles, others came to the Camino because they wanted to learn how the great masters were solving the technical problems that the new architectural styles were posing. I personally feel that the Romanesque architectural style of the Camino is par excellence, although for example in Spain, we find cathedrals such as Burgos or León in magnificent Gothic style.
WHO WALKS THE CAMINO?
Almost everybody—nothing has changed since the Middle Ages!
Most, in those remote times, did it for religious reasons with the intent to venerate and prostrate themselves before the tomb of Saint James. It was believe that this granted plenary indulgence (full remission of punishment for confessed sins) for seven years. Poor people who had nothing, at least assured themselves of eternal salvation.
Kings, nobles, and the upper classes from all around Europe, also made a pilgrimage to Santiago. In fact, it was quite fashionable in the high society. Although they “walked” it in a much more comfortable way than the average pilgrims, in their luxurious wagons, escorted by their servants.
Many sick people were also made their way, awaiting healing when they came to kiss the apostle's feet. As you can imagine on their journeys, their illnesses getting worse, many died despite the number of hospitals that were constructed along the way to attend pilgrims. Many times, before dying, they would donate their possessions to those hospitals, some of which came to possess great wealth.
Troubadours, buskers, tooth-pickers (yes, that was a thing), barbers, prostitutes, adventurers, merchants, peasants, clergy, students of other languages, and all kinds of people moved along this new path that led to Compostela.
With so many people moving along the same roads, it was not surprising that thieves, troublemakers and usurers (money-lenders charging incredibly high rates) also appeared to hustle the well-intentioned pilgrims—stealing, scamming, deceiving the suffering pilgrims, and on many occasions even killing them.
To protect the Camino, military religious congregations appeared. Perhaps the most famous one was The Templars. These warrior monks dedicated themselves to protecting and caring for the Camino de Santiago and for those who made their Crusades here, rather than in Jerusalem. Ponferrada´s castle is the most spectacular Templar castle in Spain.
On my first pilgrimage, I shared a couple of days walking and talking with a German historian. He shared with me that back in the day, in some towns in Europe, when blood crimes such as parricides or infanticides were committed, the way to serve their sentence was by walking the Camino de Santiago. When these criminals returned to their cities, they were respected and totally reformed people.
On my second Camino, I met a group of young Dutch criminals who, along with their monitors, were doing exactly the same thing. Remembering what the German guy told me, it seemed like a great idea to me because surely their experiences during so many miles enduring the cold, the snow, the whipping wind or the blazing sun, will have made them consider many things that they wouldn’t have before.
And what about you? What would you expect to find on the Camino? What might your motivation be?
Whenever you are ready, the Camino awaits you. ¡Buen Camino!
Image | Jorge Luis Ojeda Flota, Unsplash
Do not worry. Whenever you are ready, start walking and you will see how you find all those questions answered at your own pace and at your own right moment. At the same time, you will learn to find within yourself a kind of peace and joy previously unknown.
¡Buen Camino!
p.s.: Formerly, people along the Camino were greeted with Ultreia!, which means "Keep going!" Pilgrims would reply "Et suseia Santiago!" meaning "Beyond Santiago!"
If you are looking to experience the real Camino in person but you are hesitant to walk the full 500 miles, you can join Fran Glaria on the tour he provides of the Camino de Santiago. You will have the chance to walk the most beautiful parts of the trail. You will also learn about the history, the art, the spirituality on the Camino, and you will enjoy the amazing food and wine of northern Spain.
